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 Perhaps you’re not convinced that a dSLR is for you. Don’t feel guilty. Many serious shooters are in the same position. You’ve been getting good results with your non-dSLR camera and wonder if you’ll see any improvement with a single lens reflex camera. Perhaps the 28-200mm (35mm equivalent) zoom lens on an SLR-like camera with electronic viewfinder has the range you need for 95 percent of your photographs. Why purchase a dSLR if you won’t need interchangeable lenses, or can’t afford them?

The truth is that there is a lot more to a digital SLR than the Single Lens Reflex part of the equation. I’ll get into more detail in Chapter 2, but here’s a quick summary of the pros and cons of dSLRs, and why you might get much better results from a dSLR with 6 megapixels when compared with a non-dSLR model with the same nominal resolution. Note that the first bunch of the advantages I’m touting are only incidentally related to the fact that the camera is a single lens reflex.

Four dSLR Advantages Unrelated to Single-Lens Reflexiveness

Some of the strengths that accrue to dSLRs have nothing to do with the fact that they are single lens reflex cameras.

■ Higher sensitivity and reduced noise. The images from most non-dSLRs begin to break down when sensitivity is increased to ISO 400 or more, primarily because of excessive noise. Few of these cameras have an ISO setting that’s usable. In contrast, many dSLRs generate relatively low noise at ISO 800, and produce acceptable images at ISO 1600, ISO 3200, and beyond. The improved quality offered by digital SLRs is due to the larger sensors available in these cameras. As vendors pack more and more pixels into the tiny CCD sensors found in non-SLR cameras, the pixels become smaller and more prone to noise. The larger pixels in the CMOS and CCD sensors of dSLRs have much less of a tendency to produce the random grain we see as noise, and are more sensitive, to boot, producing higher effective ISO speeds.

■ Control over depth-of-field. The larger sensors require lenses with longer focal lengths, so the dSLR use regains the control over depth-of-field that is such an important creative tool. Ignore those “35mm equivalent” specs you see posted for non-dSLR cameras. That “38mm” zoom setting on your point-and-shoot digital may provide the same field-of-view as the moderate wide angle you’ve used on your film SLR, but the depth-of-field is more

akin to what is native to the 6mm actual focal length of that lens. You’d think the “380mm” setting would give you roughly the same narrow depth-of-field you’d expect from a 400mm lens on your film camera, but what you end up with is the same field of sharpness offered by a 60mm lens. Anyone who’s used a consumer digital camera knows that at non-macro shooting distances, virtually everything in the picture is sharp, at any

zoom setting and at any f-stop. If you plan to use depth-of-field creatively, as in the photo shown in Figure 1.4, in which the background was thrown out of focus to emphasize the flower, you’ll need a dSLR with a larger sensor.

■ Digital SLRs work like a camera, not a VCR. I own a Nikon CoolPix 995, which was one of the best $1,000 digital cameras of its time, and still a champ among 3.3MP models for sharp images and macro performance. Still, this camera drove me nuts.

Even after I’d owned it for a year I had to take along a cheat sheet that told me how to activate infrequently used features, such as manual focus. I used the 995 a lot, but I still had to refer to my crib notes to see which menu I needed to refer to to activate a particular feature, and then which buttons to press to make it work.

It was a great camera, but it didn’t work like one.

The same situation exists today with the vast majority of nondSLR cameras. I have the opportunity to test eight or ten point-and-shoot cameras in all price ranges each month, and virtually all of them operate more like VCRs rather than like cameras. When you zoom in and out, do you want to press a couple of buttons and wait while a teeny motor adjusts the lens elements for you, or would you rather twirl a zoom ring on the lens itself and be done with it? To switch to manual focus, wouldn’t you prefer to flip an AF/MF button and then twist the focus ring on the lens, instead of pressing a Menu key, finding the Focus setting, switching to Manual focus, and then pressing a pair of left-right cursor buttons?

Photo enthusiasts won’t put up with that nonsense when they’re trying to take pictures.

The dSLR I use has separate buttons for burst mode, ISO settings, white balance, EV adjustments, metering mode, and resolution. To adjust any of those, I hold down the appropriate button and thumb the command dial to choose the setting I want. Set the camera to shutter- or aperture-priority (with a dial, not a menu) and move the command dial to adjust the f-stop or shutter speed. In manual exposure mode, there are separate

command dials for shutter speed and aperture.

That might seem like a lot of buttons to master, but, trust me, you’ll learn to use them much more quickly than you’ll memorize the menu system of the typical point-and-shoot.

■ Faster operation. You’ll find that dSLRs work much faster than point-and-shoot digital cameras. One of the metrics used to measure point-and-shoot performance is “time to first shot.” That is, once you decide to take a picture and switch the camera on, how long must you wait until the camera is actually ready to shoot? Generally, you’ll have to wait 3 to 5 seconds or more; then wait another second while the camera autofocuses and calculates exposure after you’ve pressed the shutter release. Switch a dSLR on, and it’s ready to go. On more than one occasion I’ve spotted an unexpected opportunity, switched my digital SLR on as I brought the camera to my eye, and then took a picture, all within less than one second.

Try to take more pictures

The cost of taking pictures with a digital camera is low compared to conventional photography. If

you have enough batteries and memory card space then take extra shots. You can take more

daring and experimental pictures too. The ones that do not work out can be quickly deleted later.

Learn how your camera works

Many digital cameras contain a range of features to help take great pictures. This is especially

important when taking pictures in poor lighting conditions or taking pictures of fast moving

objects. Read the instructions that came with your camera and experiment to find out how to take

the best pictures. There are many differences between film and digital cameras and even if you

are used to using a film camera you may find it useful to learn about these differences.

Make sure you have adequate lighting

Just like with normal photography, lighting plays an important role in digital photography. If your

subject is too dark for your regular camera, it may be too dark for the digital one also. And unlike

regular cameras, most digital cameras do not allow you to change shutter speeds directly. Digital

cameras will usually select shutter speed automatically - be aware when your camera select a

speed that is too slow to hold by hand and use a tripod. Digital cameras can also compensate for

low lighting conditions by increasing the gain on internal electronics (it is like using a faster ASA

film). But the increased gain will lead to increase in noise and poorer color performance.

Focusing your camera

Many digital cameras have advanced auto-focus features to help you capture the best possible

photo with the least difficulty. But sometimes the lighting or other conditions make it difficult for

your camera to focus effectively. Here are some ways to make sure that the subjects of your

pictures are as clear as possible:

Focus between the people This often happens when you take a picture of two people. The

camera will focus on a piece of background that is at the center of the picture between the two

people. Try to focus on one person first and then frame the shot.

Low contrast, strong backlight, or bright reflections If any of these conditions exist, focus on

another subject that is about the same distance from you and lock the focus on that subject. Then

return to your subject to take the picture. (See your camera's user manual for how to lock the

focus.)

Multiple distances If the subjects of your photo are at different distances from you, focus on the

most important subject. If you focus on a subject in between your primary subjects, chances are

that both subjects will be out of focus.

Too dark for the auto-focus to work Some auto-focus systems do not work in low lighting

conditions. When they cannot get focus lock they stop the camera from shooting.

Good photographs are good for both technical and aesthetic reasons. While the aesthetic issues are a matter of personal taste, many otherwise great photos are spoiled by poor technique. Here are some things to keep in mind when taking pictures:

1. Get Closer

Most amateur's frame too far away from their subjects. Look through the viewfinder! This is especially important when photographing people. Professionals typically use long lenses (85-105mm) for portraits. Most point and shoot cameras on the other had have 35mm lenses.

2. Include People in your Shots

The addition of people to pictures add atmosphere and context. It makes the subject easier to relate to and sometimes gives a sense of scale for small or large objects.

3. Capture Action

Keep the people moving and try to 'catch the moment'

4. Simplify the Composition

Simple compositions are easier to understand. Uncluttered backgrounds offer less to distraction the viewer and allow them to focus on the subject material.

5. Put the Subject Off-Centered

Try to place the main subject off the center of the picture. Professionals use a 'rule-of-thirds' and place the main subject one third of he way across the frame. Why this works is not well understood, but it can be very effective

6. Vary the Angle

Can add humor and drama. Almost all photos are taken from eye level, but there are many other possibilities.

7. Put Foreground in Scenes

Foreground detail gives depth to the shot and adds interest and context. It can also be used to frame the subject.

8. Pay attention to Lighting

Where is the sun? Direct sun can give too much contrast but not enough light will lead to poor images and possibly camera shake. Light alone can 'make the shot'.

9. Use Flash

Flash can be used to improve the lighting, even outdoors on dull days. But be aware the effective range is very limited. Adding additional natural light to a room will also make the effect look more natural.

10. Hold Still

Camera movement spoils many otherwise great shots and is often mistaken for focus problems.

Hold the camera steady - brace against objects. Flash can help to freeze the action.